Never tried threeline grunt or hiramasa? Then PEZ is a good place to start.
This is Greening’s second venue, one floor below CHOWCHOW in the same WHARF building. Do not simply look for a staircase: PEZ has its own entrance on the opposite street, so a short detour is part of the experience. One flight down, the Italian buzz upstairs gives way to blue-green walls—painted by the staff themselves—and a handsome counter cut from a single slab of wood.

The kitchen is led by Aya Ishihama, whose résumé includes six years at Hotel Okura, three at Daikanyama’s fish bistro Ata, and a spell as sous-chef at the one-Michelin-starred seafood-focused French restaurant abysse, under Kotaro Meguro.

Her first rule at PEZ is uncompromising: every dish must contain fish or seafood. There are no meat-only plates on the menu. This is not a restaurant designed around pescatarians, exactly, but they will have little trouble finding something to eat.

The second rule concerns what reaches the chopping board. PEZ works with fish that Tokyo restaurants often overlook, and aims to use every possible part of each catch. The defining dish is the soupe de poisson, around ¥2,000: fish bones, vegetables, crab, lobster head and spices, with chicken stock in place of salt. Ishihama was aiming for the deep, savoury pull of dashi—and it comes through clearly.

The other order that seems to appear on nearly every table is a whole charcoal-grilled lobster with herb sauce, at around ¥4,000.
The drinks list brings together natural wine and natural sake: an obvious pairing for a seafood bistro, yet still surprisingly uncommon in Tokyo. PEZ shares its more unusual bottles with CHOWCHOW upstairs; the two restaurants draw from the same cellar.

There are 24 seats, split between the counter and tables. On busy evenings, tables come with a 2.52.52.5-hour limit.

If you are planning to do both restaurants in one night, begin downstairs: fish and white wine at PEZ, then head up for meat and red at CHOWCHOW. The reverse order is possible, of course—but makes rather less sense.